Digging the graves that were never buried: My visit to Kedarnath

Recently, there was a loud uproar on Twitter, when a proposal video of a couple shot outside the Kedarnath temple went viral. Self-proclaimed gatekeepers of religion started calling for a complete ban on mobile phones in and around the temple premises. Soon, it started echoing further, and the highly responsible authorities even complied by taking action. Earlier, a video of a mule allegedly getting forced to smoke marijuana also went viral. However, there was no uproar. Perhaps, God is not so moved by the torture of animals, but selfies torment his heart. Or at least for his advocates.

Anything related to religion is a complex issue in India. When, where, and what can hurt religious sentiments is so complicated, it can confuse even the Supreme Creator himself. Ancestors say that one should definitely visit the Char Dham once in their life. My mother used to tell me stories of her father organizing Yatras for people from nearby villages. The dedication among people from all walks of life to visit the iconic Kedarnath temple once in their life had always fascinated me.

Hence, a few days ago, I went to Kedarnath myself. And I was also offended. Although, I’ll not talk about bans and prohibitions but improvements.

Out of the Char Dham in India, the trek to Kedarnath is probably the most difficult one. Is it only because of geographical reasons, or is there someone else to blame?

Endless Queues

After leaving from Ukhimath at around 11 am, we reached Sonprayag in the evening after a painstaking five-hour drive. The distance between the two is approximately 10 kilometers. Finally, we reached the starting point for the endless queues that follow. Cars move like insects as far as you can see. One wrong turn and you are stuck for days to get back on the right track. The journey does not have a queue, it has an endless chain of queues that one has to face. The first queue starts at the Sonprayag car parking. It can take as much as 10-12 hours to merely find a parking spot. All there is to do is wait, for hours.

Thereafter, another queue awaits the pilgrims at Sonprayag, where they are supposed to wait for public transport to get to Gaurikund. There is another queue, outside the Kedarnath temple. And the footfall is so high, that any arrangement feels barely sufficient. Rainfall is common, but sheds are not. However, all these seem very petty. Perhaps, that is why even the authorities don’t take it very seriously. But, for a helpless pilgrim, who believes that even the bare minimum is a favor from the government, even questioning feels like rebellion.

It is important to ask questions. Let’s consider the mobile phones and selfies responsible for the long queues and congestion. But the torn sheds and lack of facilities demand state accountability.

Commencement of the Journey

Often, the journey comes to a halt in the evening due to unfavorable weather conditions. Our experience was no different. By 4 pm, a loudspeaker announcement declared, "The journey has been suspended due to adverse weather conditions." We were left with no choice but to secure mattresses in private halls at random prices and wait.

The pilgrims start coming out around midnight, eagerly anticipating the departure at 4 am. The fear of rain lingers in everyone's mind, and the waiting game begins. On the way, signboards indicating the distance to the temple suggest it to be 16 kilometers. However, it feels much more with the rugged terrain and innumerable obstacles. Despite ten years of the Kedarnath disaster, the trek remains in a dilapidated condition, with stones removed and mud taking their place.

Digging Graves along the way

But don’t worry, you won't be alone during this yatra. Accompanying you will be a bamboo stick and mules (constantly barging into you). Mules are an important part of this arrangement, however, even they are subjected to inhuman treatment. Social media frequently highlights concerns about the mules' treatment, but no significant actions have been taken to address the issue. The sight of mule carcasses scattered along the path makes their plight evident. Recent media pressure has curtailed some harsh practices, raising questions about why these regulations were not in place earlier and when they will be implemented.

Disturbing videos show mules being forced to inhale smoke, followed by their lifeless bodies being pushed down the breathtaking Himalayan valleys. Moreover, the treacherous roads pose immense challenges for both humans and animals, with continuous water and mudslides from the mountains causing accidents. Mules often slip and fall along with those who ride them. However, the owner’s whip makes sure that the mule doesn’t remain on the ground long enough for you to notice. On some rough pathways, you might come across mule skeletons, indicating that the animals were left where they perished or, sometimes, callously discarded as garbage. Skulls often get submerged in garbage, making them barely visible.

Mules can be seen laboring day and night along the journey. They navigate through dark paths and congested roads, making such painful deaths a usual affair. However, there seems to be no administration to care for these helpless animals. But dare you take selfies inside the temple premises and hurt religious sentiments?

The dark alleys of Kedarnath

After the tiring journey, as I was returning at around 1o’clock in the night, I saw two children innocently sleeping in a bamboo-made palanquin. Their innocence could hypnotize you in a moment. But the very next moment, your feet encounter a pothole and the enchantment breaks abruptly. And fear takes its place. Fear grips me as I imagine the consequences of someone carrying the palanquin and accidentally making one wrong step in the darkness, endangering the children.

It is heartbreaking to see that such a significant religious place does not even have a bulb to guide pilgrims at odd hours. These are simple issues that 13,000 daily visitors face but do not budge. However, it does not absolve the authorities from their responsibilities. Darkness makes the already difficult journey almost impossible for the pilgrims. When strength gives up, faith moves them forward. But even faith is not enough. The trembling old people I saw while returning at 2 AM made me realize.

Exercise of power can be seen during mobile bans and selfie prohibition. But it disappears along with accountability when questions are raised on these shortcomings. These minor issues combine and give birth to major tragedies. Who shall be held accountable? I leave the question open to the readers.